Letter VII.
TO THE EDITOR OF THE PRÉCIS HISTORIQUES, BRUSSELS.
Journey to the Great Desert in 1851.
UNIVERSITY OF ST. LOUIS, Jan. 30, 1852.
Quite late in the afternoon of the 23d of September I bade farewell to the Creoles, Canadians, and half-bloods. I exhorted them to live well, and to pray to God, and to hope that he would soon send them spiritual succor for their temporal and eternal happiness, and that of their children. I shook hands for the last time with the great chiefs and with a large number of Indians, and addressed them some encouraging words, and promised to plead their cause with the great chiefs of the Black-gowns, and make known the desire, good intentions, and hopes they had expressed to me, while they would daily, in all sincerity of heart, implore the `1 Master of Life" to send them zealous priests to instruct them in the way of salvation, which Jesus Christ, his only Son, came to trace to his children on earth.
I directed my course towards `1 the springs," situated about fourteen miles distant, in the vicinity of the trading-house at Robidoux, for Colonel Mitchell had named this as the rendezvous for all those who proposed going directly to the United States. On the 24th, before sunrise, we set out in good and numerous company. I visited, in my way, two trading-houses, in order to baptize five half blood children,
In the course of the day we passed the famous Chimneyrock, so often described by travellers. I had already seen it, in 1840 and 1841, in my first visit to the Rocky Mountains, and mentioned it in my letters. I found it considerably diminished in height.
We , cast a last look upon the singular. productions of nature, the Castle and the Tower, which are near the Chimney, and resemble the ruins of lordly residences scattered over several acres, in(] presenting a very elevated and broken surface, amid a level plain.
Arrived on the Platte, at the place known as Ash Hollow, we turned our steps towards the South Fork, fifteen miles away, over a beautiful rolling country of great elevation, Here we met the Prince P., accompanied only by a Prussian officer, on their way to enjoy a hunt in the Wind River Mountains. We exchanged our little news, and received with pleasure the interesting information which the prince gave us. - His excellency must be indeed courageous, to undertake at his age so ion; a journey in such a wilderness with but one man as suite, and in a wretched little open wagon, which carried the prince, and his officer, as well as their whole baggage and provisions. Later, I learned that the prince intends to choose a location suited to agriculture, for the purpose of founding a German colony.
We live in an age when wonders multiply; we cannot say what, in the way of colonization, may not come to pass in a short time, after witnessing the success of the Mormons, who in less than five years have changed the face of a frightful desert, and live there in great abundance. Yet I am free to maintain, that if the prince has really formed the plan ascribed to him, which I scarcely credit, I pity from the bottom of my heart those who first embark in the expedition. The enemies whom they would have to meet are still too powerful: Crows, Black-Feet, Sioux, Sheyennes, Rapahos, and Snakes, are the most feared and warlike of the desert.
A colony established in such a neighborhood, and against the will of the numerous warlike tribes in the vicinity of those mountains, would run great dangers and meet heavy obstacles. The influence of religion alone can prepare these parts for such a transformation. The threats and promises of colonists, their guns and sabres, would never effect what can be accomplished by the peaceful word of the Blackgown, and the sight of the humanizing sign of the cross.
From the crossing of the South Fork to the junction of the Great Forks, the distance is reckoned to be seventy-five miles, and thence to Fort Kearney one hundeed and fifty miles. Wood is very rare between the Platte and the Nebraska. From the junction of the two Forks to the mouth of the valley is six or eight miles wide, while the bed of the river is about two miles in width. In the spring, at the melting of the snows, when this river is high, it presents a magnificent sheet of water, with numerous isles and islets covered with verdure, and skirted with cotton-trees and willows.' In the autumn, on the contrary, it loses all interest and beauty. Its waters then escape into a great number of almost imperceptible passages and channels among the sandbanks which cover the bed through its whole length and extent.
When wood fails, as frequently happens on the banks of the Platte or Nebraska, the meals are cooked at fires of bisondung, which, when dried, burns like turf.
The soil of the Nebraska is in general rich and deep, mingled, however, with sand in several localities. There is a great variety of grasses, which with numerous shrubs, covered with flowers of dazzling beauty, present a wide field of study to the lover of botany. As we retire from the vale, a very sensible change is perceptible in the productions of the soil: instead of the former robust and vigorous vegetation, the plains are overgrown with a short, crisp grass; however, it is very nourishing, and eagerly sought by the herds of buffalo and countless wild animals that graze on them.
We arrived at Fort Kearney on the 2d of October, where Colonel Mitchell, the superintendent, held a conference with a deputation of some twenty Pawnee chiefs and braves. They-expressed their regret that, not having assisted at the great council, they found themselves excluded from the advantages that the treaty would secure to the other nations, and had no share in the presents made by the government. They all made solemn promises to adhere to the spirit of the .treaty, and to execute the orders of their 11 Great Father the President," who desired that they should live peaceably with all their neighbors, and decreed the cessation of all depredations exercised against travellers from the United States who cross this territory. These Pawnee chiefs and warriors received with all the politeness of Indian customs the various deputations which accompanied us on their way to Washington,-that is, the Sioux, Cheyennes, and Rapahos, hitherto their mortal enemies,-regaling them with banquets, dances, and songs. 11 My heart leaps with joy," shouted a chief of the Pawnee Wolves, " because I find myself in presence of those that from my infancy I have been taught to consider as my mortal foes. Sheyennes, I and my warriors have made many incursions into your territories, to steal your horses, and rob you of your scalps. Yes, my heart bounds with delight, for it had never dreamed of meeting yon face to face, and of touching your hand in friendship. You see me here poor-I have not a horse to mount. Well, I will gladly go on foot the remainder of my clays, if the tomahawk is to be buried by all." He offered the calumet to all the deputies, and several accepted it. A young Sheyenne chief, named " He who mounts the clouds," refused to touch it, and thus answered the Pawnee : "Neither thou nor thy people have invited me into your territory. My father," added he, pointing to the superintendent, " requested me to follow him, and I follow him : I accept not thy calumet of peace,lest I betray thee. Perchance while I now speak to thee, our brave warriors seek the lodges of thy tribe. No ! I will not deceive thee, therefore know that peace exists not between me and thee. I speak thus fearlessly and clearly, for I stand beneath the banner of my father."
The allusions of the Shey enne seemed not to mar the existing harmony; the dances, songs, speeches, and banquets were kept up till late in the night.
The following are the names of the Indian deputies.
The Sheyenne envoys are - Voki vokammast, or The White Antelope; Obalawska, or Red Skin ; and Voive atoish, or The man that mounts the clouds.
The Rapaho deputies are-Nehunutah, or Eagle's Head; Nocobotha, or The Tempest;, and Vash, or Friday.
The Sioux deputies arc-Haboutzelze, or The Unicorn ; Kaive ou neve, or The Little Chief; Pouskawit cah cah, or The Shellman ; Chakalaakeechtah, or The Watchful Ell. ; and Mawgah, or the Goose ; the last belongs to the Black-Foot Sioux.
The two Ottos and their wives, who joined us afterwards, were, Wah-rush-a-menec, or the Black Deer; and his wife, Mookapec, or the Eagle's Plume: Wah-sho-chegorah, or The Black Bear; and his wife, Hou ohpec, or The Singing Bird.
At Fort Kearney we parted with Colonel Mitchell and his suite, who took the route to Table River. I joined Major Fitzpatrick and the deputies, and we continued on the southern route, which crosses the Indian territory.
The country between the frontiers of Missouri and the Great Blue River presents a remarkable uniformity in all its leading features. Clay soil, rolling prairies, and the shores of the river well wooded. You meet forests of gal. and nuttrees of all varieties, with maple and cotton-wood and a variety of trees found in the east. The hill-sides in several places abound in fine springs of water, surrounded by beautiful groves, arranged with as much order and taste as if planted by the hand of man. While a luxuriant turf, enamelled with fragrant flowers, replaces the briars and underwood, the prairies on all sides, surrounded by forests which protect the water-courses, present to the sight an ocean of verdure adorned with flowers, agitated by the wind, and perfuming the air with a thousand odors.
The vale of the Kanzas is broad, of a deep, brown vegetable soil : the same remark may be made of the valleys of the remaining rivers of this territory, all of which are suit able-for agriculture. The streams of water are clear; they run over pebbly beds, between high banks, and teem with fine fish.
Major Fitzpatrick preferred taking the southern route, in order to give our friends, the Indian deputies, an opportunity of witnessing the progress that the tribes are capable of making in agriculture and the mechanic arts. He wished to convince them that labor and its results gradually conduct to happiness and ease, and convince them that by adopting habits of industry man is freed from the necessity of wandering from place to place to obtain subsistence.
We reached St. Mary's, among the Potawatomies, on the 11th of October. Bishop Miège, and the other Fathers of the Mission, received us with great cordiality and kindness.
To give the Indian deputies a relish for labor by the tasting of the various products of farming, a quantity of vegetables and fruits were set before them. Potatoes, carrots, turnips, squashes, parsneps, melons, with apples and peaches, graced the board, and our forest friends did them most ample honor." One of the chiefs, "Eagle Head," said to me, "Now, Father, we comprehend thy words. Thou hast told us that in a few years the buffaloes would disappear from our territory; that we must take measures against the day of need ; that then we can-reap from the earth subsistence and even plenty for our children. When thou vast speaking to us, our ears were shut; now they are opened, for we have eaten the products of the soil. We see here a happy people, well fed and well clothed. We hope that the great Father (the Bishop will take pity on us and on our children. We wish to have Black-gowns with us, and we will cheerfully attend to their words."
The day after was Sunday, and all attended High Mass. The church was well filled. The choir, composed of halfbloods and Indians, sting admirably the Gloria, the Credo, and several-hymns. The Rev. Father Gailland delivered a sermon in Potawatomie, which lasted three quarters of an hour, and the number of communicants was large: All this, joined with the attention, modesty, and devotion of the whole auditory, some with prayer-books and others with beads, made a profound and, I hope, durable impression on the minds of our Indians of the plains. During several days they never ceased talking with me and questioning on all they had seen, calling it the doctrine that renders men happy here and conducts them to heaven. We found the Mission in a flourishing state; the two schools are well attended ; a community of religious of the Sacred Heart have conciliated the affection of the women and girls of the nation, and are working among them with the greatest success. The Potawatomies approach their residences nearer and nearer to the church and to their " Good Fathers," and have resolutely commenced cultivating the ground and raising domestic animals. Every Sunday the Fathers have the consolation of contemplating a beautiful congregation of Indians assembled in the wood-built cathedral, and on an average one hundred and twenty piously approaching the Holy Communion. We spent two days visiting the Mission. The Indian chiefs quitted the establishment with hearts overflowing with delight, and in the consoling expectation of having similar happiness in their own tribes at no very distant future. God grant their hopes may be realized!
The weather was fine, and in three days we attained Westport and Kanzas on the Missouri.
On the 16th of October we took places on board the steamboat Clara. Our Indian deputies had never seen a village or settlement of whites except what they had seen at Fort Laramie and at Fort Kearney ; they knew nothing of the manner in which houses are constructed, hence they were in constant admiration ; and when for the first time they saw a steamboat their wonder was at its height, although they appeared to entertain a certain fear as they stepped on board. A considerable time elapsed before they became accustomed to the noise arising from the escape of steam, and the bustle that took place at the ringing of bells, etc. They called the boat a ll fire-canoe," and were transported with delight at the sight of another boat ascending with a small boat behind, which they called a “pappoose," or little child. When their apprehensions of danger bad subsided, their curiosity augmented ; they took the liveliest interest in whatever they saw for the first time. They were in grand costume and seated themselves on the promenade deck; as the boat approached the several towns and villages in her progress, they hailed each with shouts and songs.
On the 22d of October we reached St. Louis. A few days after all the members of the Indian deputation were invited to a banquet given in our University. They were highly pleased at the reception given them by the Rev. Father Provincial, and overjoyed at the encouraging hope that he gave them of having Black-gowns among them-a hope perhaps soon to be realized.
Recommending the poor Indian to your prayers, I beg you to believe me with profound respect,
Yours, etc., etc.,
P.J. DE SMET, S.J.
NOTE.--The word « Medicine" is frequently found in letters written on the religious ideas, practices, and customs of the North American Indians. It is necessary to know the signification that the Indians themselves attach to this word.
The term Wah-kon is employed by the Indians to express any thing that they cannot understand, whether supernatural, natural, or mechanical. A watch, an organ, a steamboat, or any thing in fine, the operations of which exceed their capacity to understand, is called Wahkon. God is called Wah-kon-tonga, or the Great Incomprehensible. The word Tonga in Sioux means great or large.
Wah-kon means, properly, incomprehensible, inexpressible. It is badly translated by the whites, who always render it medicine; thus, for example, the word Wah-kon-tonga, or God, has been translated Great.Medicine !
The word medicine has since been so universally applied to the different religious and superstitious ceremonies of the Indians, that all travellers use it when writing of the natives.
The word medicine, when applied to Indian ceremonies, whether religious or superstitious, has, however, no relation to the treatment of the body, but it has been so commonly adopted that I am forced to use it when speaking of the Indians. Thence tire derived the compounds, "medicine-feast," I' medicine-dance," "medicine-man," etc., and also '' medicine-bag," or sack, containing idols, charms, and other superstitious articles.
My intention in giving this little note is to distinguish between medicine used in the sense of medicament, and the same word applied to charms, religious invocations, and ceremonies.